Built directly into the cliff-top ramparts of the Kasbah of the Udayas, Café Maure is the address Rabat hands out for sunset. The café is a stepped terrace of whitewashed walls and blue benches under a single orange tree, set with its back to the kasbah and its front looking across the Bou Regreg estuary to the walls of Salé. There is no roof, no waiter circuit, and no music — just the terrace, the view, and a counter on one side.

The menu is deliberately narrow and has barely shifted in decades: mint tea (around 15 MAD), Moroccan coffee with cardamom, and a glass case of small cookies, almond pastries and gazelle horns priced between 3 and 8 MAD. You queue, order and pay at the counter, then carry your tray to whichever bench is free on the terraces below. Staff clear empty cups but don't take seat orders. Cash only, no alcohol. The terrace closes around sunset, so it is an early-evening stop rather than a late one.

Late afternoon is when the café earns its reputation. Light hits the terrace from the right as the sun goes down behind Salé, the whitewash warms, and the blue benches fill. Arrive an hour before sunset to land a bench facing the estuary; on weekends people come earlier still. For a quieter version, the first half-hour after opening in the morning is the second-best slot — the same terrace, the same view, almost no other visitors.